mo.unit LOCK IN Slimline Cable, Fuse-Free Short-Circuit Protected
AUD25.00
Wire your key switch to your mo.unit safely, and without the bulk.
To wake up your motogadget mo.unit and switch your bike's electrical system on, you need to run a feed from your BAT pole through a key switch (or similar) into the LOCK IN port. Done the conventional way, that means tapping a heavy-gauge cable off your 40A main fuse (sized to survive a dead short to ground) or adding a separate inline fuse just to protect one switched wire.
Our LOCK IN cable is purpose-built to avoid both. The cable is current-limiting by design, so in the event of a short to ground, it simply won't pass enough current to overheat or melt. No fuse required, no oversized cable to route.
Automotive-grade cable, built for the heat
We use automotive-spec, high-temperature rated cable. The same standard demanded under a fuel tank or in an engine bay, and well suited to the hot Australian sun.
3-Year Warranty!
Manufactured by us here in Australia using the highest quality components. If the cable fails within 3 years of purchase, we will replace it for you free of charge.
How it connects
Bolt the ring terminal directly to your mo.unit's BAT pole together with your main power feed and push the ferrule terminated cable into the LOCK IN port. At the other end, two bare wire leads connect to your key switch (or chosen switching method).
Why it's better than wiring it yourself
- Current-limiting by design, a short to ground won't melt the cable or damage your harness.
- No separate inline fuse to source, mount, or maintain
- Automotive-grade, high-temperature rated cable
- Slim braided PET sleeving, ~3.5mm OD, disappears into your harness routing
- Ring terminal and ferrule pre-fitted. Just bolt on and push in, done
Available lengths (made to order)
Custom made by us in Australia. Available in the following lengths: 50cm / 75cm / 100cm / 125cm / 150cm / 175cm / 200cm
Compatible with: mo.unit blue and mo.unit basic
Package Contents
1 x pre-built LOCK IN cable, sleeved and terminated, ready to install
A note on diagnostics
Because this circuit is current-limiting rather than fused, there's no blown fuse to spot if something's gone wrong — you won't get that familiar visual "aha" of a dead fuse to point you to the fault. If your LOCK IN circuit isn't behaving, diagnose it the way you would any wiring fault: check for continuity end to end, and if you suspect the cable itself, try bridging the circuit with a temporary jumper to isolate whether the fault is in the cable or elsewhere in the loop.
